Posted by: Marcie Miller | May 11, 2010

Frozen peas and locked castles

Today was a driving day, 7 hours from Doolin to Portmagee, on the southern tip of the Iveragh Peninsula.

Chris drove all day while I rested my knee. We stopped this morning and got necessary medical supplies — an ace bandage from the chemist’s and a package of frozen peas from the supermarket. Frozen peas, the miracle cure. As you can see from the picture below, I wrapped said peas around my leg and kept it elevated for much of the drive.

I'm sure the clerk wondered why the crazy Yanks were buying only frozen peas.

Chris didn’t make me as nervous with his driving today, which he said made him drive better. hmmm…

We crossed over the River Shannon on the car ferry at Kilmer, barely more than barge, but  very expensive at 18 Euro. Look it up. Took 20 minutes, leaving County Clare behind and moving on to County Kerry, or “The Kingdom of Kerry” as they like to call it.

We stopped in Listowel and had Indian food for lunch – a nice change from Irish food. Also stopped at the Listowel castle, which was “closed for the season.” Season? It’s May! Not having the best of luck with the castles. Surely Bunratty, the mother of all Irish castles, will be open!

At least they don't have boiling oil...

We’re staying in the Portmagee Hostel, a VERY nice new building with a view across the harbor to Valencia Island. There is only one other person here, but we haven’t seen him/her.

Portmagee is a quaint little fishing town — haha — no, actually it used to be, but now it relies on tourism, chiefly people heading out to Skellig Michael, as are we.

Drove around this evening and found this sign at the end of a narrow road. Take it seriously.

Love those international signs!

Tomorrow morning we head out on the long-awaited trip to Skellig Michael, a steep rocky island used by monks for 600 years, up to the 13th century, as a retreat. I’m a bit nervous about the climb with my knee — 600 steps! And even if I make it to the top, there’s the slog back down…



  1. You guys are having too much fun. I’m green—with envy! Happy to hear you thought I was brave as a passenger. You must not have noticed how I gasped and cringed away from the door on many occassions. Love the travelogue. Almost as good as being there. A lot less effort, too. Hope you make it up and down the 600 steps. Love, Mom

  2. You can do it, Marcie! You can do it! You can do it! Oh…wait….by the time you read this, you either will have done it or not. I bet you did. You’re one tough cookie!

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